I have just read what I have wanted
to write. It’s an article in the New Zealand Herald by Robyn Pearce about food
in France. More specifically, it’s about what is different about eating and
food and meals in France. It’s very, very hard to explain, but she has done it.
Here’s the link to her article:
and here’s the excerpt that really rang
my bell:
“Eating was an exercise in slowing
down and savouring every phase of the three course dejeuner [which] was laid
out with care and enjoyed in a leisurely way. The three of us relaxed, chatted
and joked between courses. A few wines slipped smoothly down as we watched the
yachts, fishing boats, seagulls and tide and laughed at our communication
mistakes (my beginner French is about the same level as their English). At
least an hour and a half was enjoyed at the table, with occasional forays to
the kitchen for the next delicacy.
“Was this a special meal, with extra
time taken because they had a Kiwi friend to stay? After all, I'd done the same
for them when they visited me in New Zealand during the Rugby World Cup last
year. Yes, but only in part. I saw the same care put into food selection,
preparation and eating with every dejeuner and dîner (dinner) in each French
family I visited. And I sensed something different - an intangible quality I
couldn't quite put my finger on.
“A week later it was my close friends
Jean-Michel and Béatrice who solved the puzzle for me (in their excellent
English):
'Robyn, in France we honour both the food and the meal time. When you eat with your family, it is a time to stop work and enjoy sharing the matters of the day. We don't rush. We enjoy our food and we put importance on spending that time together. It helps to keep families connected. If it is a business meal, the dining experience is treated most seriously. We enjoy sharing good food before we talk business, usually in a restaurant. And much business is done in France over a meal table.'
“Finally I got it. Every stage
deserves focus. The French people I observed are very 'present' as they
purchase, prepare, serve and then enjoy. The food is treated with respect. The
serving of the food is treated with respect. And the people who sit down to
enjoy the food are also treated with respect.
A meal (and the preparation of it) is
not something to be rushed through so you can get to the next important task.”
And there you have it. I love eating
out in France. The food isn’t always the best (it’s true!) but the courses are
separated with space enough between to dwell, chat, digest, savour, and enjoy.
It’s how our French friends eat here in France. It’s how our children eat at
their canteens at school (primary and college). And it’s how I like to eat now
too.
Bon appétit! Savour your meal!
